BAIXA is the heart of Lisbon so it makes sense that it is also our Neighbourhood. Our downtown location right next to Praca Da Figueira has Rossio Square, Restauradores Square and Comercio Square within a stones throw of our door. Steps away are the iconic downtown streets of Rua Augusta, Avenida da Liberdade and Rua da Santa Justa. Turn right from our door and with a few paces you are already at the Tejo Riverfront.
Baixa is a magnificent mix of grand public squares, shops, cafes, restaurants and bars, all designed in the beautiful, 18th Century, Pombaline style of architecture.
Praca Da Figueira, Baixa
Praca Da Figueira: The statue of King Joao I watches over Figueira Square while new arrivals exit the Rossio metro station and see the Sao Jorge Castle for the first time. Pedestrians dodge local skaters as they fly off the edge of the monuments’ platform and sometimes don’t retrieve their boards before they crash into the facade of Confeitaria Nacional, the National Bakery. The wise guys of Lisbon squeeze mustard onto their sandwiches at the iconic Casa Das Bifanas and people watch as the lines for the Tram 15 to Belem and the Bus 737 to the Castelo grow.
WHERE: Face the street at the door of WLFT, turn left, you’re there !
WHEN: All hours, public square
HOW: 30 second walk from WLFT
Confeitaria Nacional, Praca da Figueira, Baixa
Confeitaria Nacional: Operating since 1829, this royal bakery is overflowing with history and traditional pastries.
WHERE: Praça da Figueira, 18 B, Baixa, Lisboa
WHEN: Monday to Saturday 8 am – 8 pm, Sunday 9 am – 9 pm
HOW: 1 min walk from WLFT
Mercado Da Figueira (Local Produce Market), Praca Da Figueira, Baixa
Mercado da Figueira: Charming little market selling high quality Portuguese products. Tasty local fruits and vegetables, meat, fish, bread, wines and liquors, Charcuterie and dry goods. It is more expensive than “Pingo Doce” the local chain supermarket but well worth a stroll around for 1 or 2 special things.
WHERE: Praça da Figueira 10, Baixa
WHEN: Monday to Saturday 8:30 am to 8:00 pm
HOW: 1 min walk from WLFT
Igreja de Sao Domingo (church), Baixa
Sao Domingo Church: The site of some terrifying times in Lisbon. It dates back as far as 1241, it survived the great earthquake of 1755 and the fire that severely damaged its interior in 1959 and left it mysteriously still smelling burnt to this day.
In 1506 a three-day massacre broke out during an easter mass. A disagreement between worshipers led to hundreds of people being tortured and killed here for the crime of heresy. Only a few years later, those condemned by the Portuguese Inquisition were trapped inside the church before they were burned alive in Rossio square.
There is now a memorial site outside the church paying tribute to all the Jewish victims.
WHERE: Largo de São Domingos, Baixa
WHEN: Daily from 7:30 am to 7:00 pm
HOW: 2 min walk from WLFT
A Ginjinha Espinheira, Portuguese Cherry Licor Shop, Baixa
A Ginjinha Espinheira: Who doesn’t love a good rivalry ! Who makes it better ? A Ginjinha Espinheira OR A Ginjinha Sem Rival (The store across the road, both opening at the same time)
Get tasting and pick a side, there is no middle ! We are tasting Ginja, the most traditional Portuguese licor. Legend has it that Francisco Espinheira, a monk from the Church of Santo António (Lisbon’s patron saint), tried to sweeten sour cherries by leaving them to soak in brandy, adding sugar, water and cinnamon. This resulted in the sweet yet potent accident, Ginjinha. Not an accident at all if you ask us. Good cover story though Francisco, more sipping Ginjinha than praying we think.
WHERE: Largo São Domingos 8, Baixa
WHEN: Daily 9 am to 10 pm
HOW: 2 min walk from WLFT
NOW SKIP ACROSS THE ROAD AND TRY IT FROM GINJINHA SEM RIVAL PLUS THERE IS A FUN SURPRISE THERE TOO !
Ginjinha Sem Rival, Portuguese Cherry Licor Shop, Baixa
Ginjinha Sem Rival: Literally means Ginjinha without Rival. A Closer inspection of the label reveals the following message: “This house never competed in a domestic or foreign exposition”. It was founded at the end of the 19th century by the current proprietors’ grandfather, João Lourenço Cima, who surely was an interesting man to know. He used to serve a different mix of Ginja with aniseed and other aromas to a famous regular called Eduardo. Before and after Eduardo’s performances at the Coliseu (Performance theatre 20 metres down the road). The alternative liqueur that the clown ordered to gain courage and wind down became so famous that it was registered trademark in 1908, with the clowns nick name “Eduardino” and an illustration of him on the bottle.
WHERE: R. das Portas de Santo Antão 7, Baixa
WHEN: Daily, 8 am to midnight
HOW: 2 minutes from WLFT
20 metres from A Ginjinha Espinheira
Casa Do Alentejo, Restaurant and Palace, Baixa
Casa do Alentejo Restaurant and Palace: A social club for people from Portugals’ Alentejo region, south of Lisbon. The palace that hosts this cultural club and restaurant was built in the 1600s. As you walk up the marble staircase you will see this moorish style courtyard before you reach the Louis XVI-style ballroom and restaurant rooms upstairs. Both dining rooms display beautiful Portuguese tiles from the 18th and 19th centuries on the walls, and serve Portuguese food with a focus on the regional specialties of the Alentejo region. Our favourite is the very rich “Alentejana” with pork, clams and fried potatoes. The desserts are also very rich so grab a partner and share, or just pop in for a look around.
WHERE: Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 58, Baixa
WHEN: Daily from midday to 2:30pm for lunch, 7pm to 9pm for dinner
HOW: 3 min walk from WLFT, 1 minute from Ginjinha Sem Rival
Manuel Tavares wine cellar and fine grocery shop since 1860, Baixa
Manuel Tavares wine cellar and fine grocery shop: 160 years of experience in fine Portuguese products and wines. Set on the shortest street in Lisbon, Betesga Street, between Rossio and Praça da Figueira. This is a special shop for many local residents who have visited all their lives from childhood to old age, mostly for Christmas and Easter treats. From the owners “..we are not a tourist shop, a reflection of this its our prices, that all over the store are very competitive. We keep our prices low because we believe that everyone deserves to buy the best quality at the best prices.” Wine connoisseurs should ask to pretty please see the cellar below.
WHERE: Rua da Betesga, 1 A / B, Baixa
WHEN: Monday to Saturday 9:30 am to 7:30 pm
HOW: 2 minutes walking from WLFT
Rossio Square, Baixa
Rossio Square: Officially called Praca Dom Pedro IV after the statue of him in the centre, but referred to by locals as Rossio. Come to admire the Calcada Portuguesa (cobblestones) artfully laid out in waves, pause to sit on the edge of one of the two baroque fountains, check out the program at the Dona Maria II National Theatre or take a seat at Cafe Nicola and enjoy the old world experience instead of having a starbucks before you board a train from Rossio Train Station. Or maybe you will stroll through late at night for a magical meal at MacDonald’s, which is one of only a few places open until 4am.
WHERE: Next to Figueira square
WHEN: All hours, public square
HOW: 1 minute walk from WLFT, 30 seconds from Praca da Figueira
Dona Maria II Theatre - Rossio Square, Baixa
National Theatre Dona Maria II: The neoclassical National Theatre building opened its doors on April 13, 1846, during the celebrations of the 27th birthday of Queen Maria II. Although it was formerly a palace used by the The Holy Inquisition Court, to try and prosecute those suspected of violating the then principles of the Roman Catholic Church. It was declared a national monument in 2003 and still hosts many quality productions. Guided tours are available every Monday at 11am in various languages.
Rossio Train Station: Easily mistaken for a Palace with its intricate and ornate exterior. Rossio station was inspired by classical 16th-century Portuguese Manueline architecture. Passengers for the Sintra and suburbs line enter through the two horseshoe-shaped archways. This station is frequently crowded with tourists and locals so if you will be departing from Rossio make sure to plan your trip. Or if you miss your train enter the small square to the left of Rossio for a coffee in the sun and re-evaluate.
WHERE: Rua 1º de Dezembro 125, Baixa (between Rossio and Restauradores square)
WHEN: 6am to midnight, varying
HOW: 4 minute walk from WLFT, or across the street from the National Theatre Dona Maria II
Restauradores Square: Commemorates the restoration of the Portuguese crown in 1640, after 60 years of a shared king with Spain. Pass by the 30m high, central Obelisk to view the bronze figures on either side representing victory and freedom. Take a stroll up the tree lined Avenida da Liberdade which extends out of Restauradores or jump on the Elevador da Gloria (funicular) up to Bairro Alto.
WHERE: North of Rossio square, take the passage between the National Theatre Dona Maria II and Rossio train station into Restauradores square.
WHEN: All hours, public square
HOW: 5 minutes walking from WLFT, or 1 minute from Rossio Train Station.
Elevador da Gloria, from Restauradores Square in Baixa up to Bairro Alto
Elevador da Gloria: Looks like a tram but isn’t, The Glória Funicular was established in 1885. The 3 Elevadores of Lisbon only go up and down steep streets and not in a circuit. The Elevador da Gloria takes locals and tourists from Restauradores Square up the serious incline that is Calçada da Glória to the Bairro Alto neighbourhood. You can also skip the line and walk up…admire the street art and use the 3.80 you’ve saved for a glass of wine at the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara viewpoint at the top.
WHERE: Calçada da Glória, Baixa
WHEN: Monday to Thursday 7: 15 am to 11: 50 pm
Fridays from 7: 15 am to 12: 25 am
Saturdays from 8: 45 am to 12: 25 am
Sundays and holidays from 9: 15 am to 11: 55 pm
HOW: 5 minutes walking from WLFT, or 1 minute from Rossio Train Station
Santa Justa Lift, Baixa
Santa Justa Lift: 45 meters high and made of wrought iron with a spectacular 360 degree viewing platform. Built in 1902 by Raoul Mesnier du Ponsard, a Portuguese engineer who is said to have been a student of Gustave Eiffel. If you have a 24 hour pass on your metro card (viva card) it includes the use of this lift. If not it is 5 euros per person. Notorious for its long line snaking down the stairs and down into Rua Aurea, it is easier to manage before breakfast (yeah 7:30am). Save yourself the hassle and go to Topo Chiado (rooftop bar) if there is a line, it has a beautiful terrace with almost as good a view, which it makes up for in comfort and ambience.
WHERE: Rua da Santa Justa, Baixa
WHEN: Daily 7 am to 9 pm
HOW: 5 mins walking from WLFT, or 4 mins walking from Restauradores square.
Topo Chiado, Restaurant and bar, Baixa-Chiado
Topo Chiado: If you have tried and failed to enter the Santa Justa Lift, or if you just want to enjoy the view sitting down with a drink then get yourself to Topo and enjoy. Not a noteworthy restaurant for lunch or dinner but perfect for good cocktails / Gin and tonic and a sunset.
WHERE: Terraços do Carmo, Chiado
WHEN: Sunday to Thursday 11 am to 10 pm
Friday and Saturday 11 am to 12 pm
HOW: 5 mins walking from WLFT, or 4 mins walking from the Santa Justa Lift
Rua Augusta, Baixa
Rua Augusta (street): The busiest pedestrian street in Baixa. Rua Augusta is beautifully paved with cobblestone and lined with shops, cafes and restaurants. Some are decades old and others are tourist traps, beware. There are buskers, street performers and the ever-present, notorious Gypsies trying to sell you knock-off sunglasses and fake hash. Stand under the Triumphal Arch and look up at its detail before you cross over into Praca do Comercio, or enter the lift on the left side of the street before the arch, for a breathtaking view of Lisbon from the top.
WHERE: The central street of Baixa, Linking Lisbon two major squares, with Rossio sqaure at the north end and Comercio square at the riverside.
WHEN: Public Street
HOW: 3 minutes walk from WLFT, or 2 minutes from the Santa Justa Lift.
Triumphal arch with viewing platform, Rua Augusta, Baixa
Triumphal Arch, Rua Augusta: The Rua Augusta Arch was designed in 1759 as a gateway to the city but was redesigned into it’s current form in 1875, then restored again in 2013 with the addition of a small elevator up to the viewing platform.
WHERE: Rua Augusta, Baixa
WHEN: Daily from 9 am to 6:45 pm
HOW: 3 minutes walk from WLFT, or 2 minutes from the Santa Justa Lift.
Comercio Square / River Tejo, Baixa
Comercio Square: Lisbon’s grandest public square, facing the Tejo river, historically welcoming those arriving to Lisbon by boat. The Praça do Comércio was their first impression on arrival and acted as a symbol of the wealth and power of Portugal. It was here that captains and merchants would plan voyages to Brazil, India and South East Asia and then trade their products upon returning. The royal palace stood for over two centuries here until the devastating earthquake of 1755. It was also the location of the assassination of King Carlos I and his son Luis Filipe in 1908, which brought about the fall of the Portuguese monarchy in 1910.
Get an insight into Portuguese History at the informative Lisbon Story Centre, or do a wine tasting at Vini Portugal Wine tasting rooms. Have a bite to eat at Lisbon’s oldest restaurant, Martinho da Arcada, which dates from 1782 or enjoy a beer under the shade of the umbrellas at the Beer Museum.
A complete Walking Tour Guide to admire Christmas in Lisbon.
WritteWritte
Written by Derika Neira – 11/18/2021
At the end of November, Christmas decorations start in Lisbon. The twinkling lights illuminate the shopping streets in the Baixa and Chiado districts. So, here are our Walking Tour guide to admire the charms of Christmas in Lisbon!
The 6th edition of Wonderland Lisboa starts on December 1st, 2021 and runs until January 2nd, 2022.
The best part? IT'S FOR FREE!
Where to start?
The ideal is to schedule for after 18:00 to be able to see everything illuminated.
Start the tour in Wonderland Lisbon, at Parque Eduardo VII. For a good view to take pictures, disembark at the São Sebastião subway station and go down through Jardim Amália Rodrigues. If you prefer to go straight to the point, get off at Parque station.
Admission is free and there are many attractions. It has an ice skating rink, a Ferris wheel, carousels and, a Christmas market with food stalls and a variety of products. A mulled wine and traditional Portuguese chestnuts go really well with the cold December weather!
Avenida da Liberdade. Photo: Rosa Pinto
Marquês de Pombal. Photo: Rosa Pinto
If you don't want to walk all over it (about 1km), you can take public transport and go straight to Rossio Square. The place is already beautiful at any time of year, but with the Christmas decorations it is even more charming! There is also a Christmas market here, but much smaller than the one in Wonderland.
Follow Rua Áurea to Armazéns do Chiado, which has a wonderful Christmas tree on its facade, and go up the starry Rua Garret to Praça Luís de Camões. The square is decorated with giant Christmas balls and a nice light, perfect stop for photos!
Armazéns do Chiado. Photo: Rosa Pinto
Chiado. Photo: Rosa Pinto
Go down Rua Augusta to Terreiro do Paço, where the tour ends with the immense Christmas tree, completing the already incredible scenery of Praça do Comércio.
Rua Augusta. Photo: Rosa Pinto.
Praça do Comércio. Photo: Rosa Pinto.
Besides Christmas in Lisbon being beautiful, it has the advantage of being emptier than in summer. Ideal to notice the architecture and details that are usually hidden among so many F****** tourists - LIKE YOU!
Alfama is a quaint, charming, medieval district overflowing with charm. It is the oldest neighbourhood in Lisbon, and the second oldest in Europe. It’s winding, tiled streets survived the earthquake, fire and Tsunami of 1755 and they remain in the same format as before the disaster until this day.
Go for the stunning view points, street art and river views, balconies strewn with hanging laundry and the smell of grilled fish around every corner. Try some authentic Portuguese food and enjoy the ambience of this magical quarter just 5 mins walking from WLFT
Se Cathedral - Alfama
Se Cathedral: Built in 1147 shortly after the Portuguese took Lisbon from the Moors.
WHERE: Largo da Se
WHEN: Daily 9am to 7pm
HOW: 6 minute walk from WLFT
The view from the Patio above the ruins of the Roman Theatre - Alfama
Museu do Teatro Romano (Roman Theatre Museum): A throw back to the early 1st century AD when Lisbon was the Roman city ofOlisipo, and this site was its 4,000 seat theatre.
WHERE: Rua de São Mamede, nº 3 A
WHEN: Tuesday to Sunday 10am to 6pm
HOW: 7 minute walk from WLFT
1 min walk from the Se Cathedral
"Casa Dos Bicos" - The house of Points, Also known as the Jose Saramago Foundation - Alfama
Casa Dos Bicos: Behind its façade of diamond-shaped stones lies the personal library of the Nobel Prize-winner for Literature in 1998, José Saramago, one of Portugal’s greatest authors. It also houses an exhibition about his life and work. Outside, under an olive tree, lie his ashes. Built in 1523 by Afonso de Albuquerque, the Portuguese viceroy of India.
WHERE: Rua dos Bacalhoeiros, 10, Alfama
WHEN: Monday – Saturday 10am to 5:30pm
HOW: 10 min walk from WLFT
4 mins walk from Roman Theatre Museum
2 min walk from Praca do Commercio
The Fado Museum - Alfama
The Museu do Fado (Fado Museum): Represents one of Portugal’s most important cultural legacies. It explores a musical genre classified as intangible cultural heritage. Examining the artistic and bibliographical careers of dozens of artists and displaying an emblematic painting by the artist José Malhoa, amongst many other references, figures and displays.
WHERE: Largo do Chafariz de Dentro, 1 (Alfama)
WHEN: Tuesday – Sunday 10am to 5:30pm
HOW: 15 min walk from WLFT
5 mins walk from Casa Dos Bicos
Miradouro de Santa Luzia - Viewpoint - Alfama
Viewpoint Miradouro de Santa Luzia: A romantic viewpoint overlooking the Alfama district and the Tejo River. With a bougainvillea garden and two tile (azulejo = Portuguese tiles) panels. One illustrating the Sao Jorge Castle being taken over from the Moors in 1147, and the other showing Praca Do Commercio before it was destroyed by the earthquake of 1755.
WHERE: Largo de Santa Luzia, Alfama
WHEN: Public viewpoint, always open
HOW: 10 mins walking from WLFT
7 mins walk from the Fado Museum
Largo Portas do Sol - Viewpoint - Alfama
Viewpoint Largo das Portas do Sol: Meaning the Doors to the Sun. This is the best spot to catch a Sunrise or to sit in one of the kiosks and take in the panoramic view any time of the day. At the center of the viewpoint is a statue of St. Vincent (Lisbon’s patron saint). Order a glass of Vinho Verde (crisp Portuguese, lightly sparkling, white wine) to sip while you edit your insta post.
WHERE: Largo das Portas do Sol, Alfama
WHEN:Public viewpoint, always open
HOW:12 mins walking from WLFT
1 min walk from Santa Luzia Viewpoint
Museu de Artes Decorativas (Decorative Art Museum) + Palácio Azurara, Alfama
Museu de Artes Decorativas / Palacio Azurara: Inside the 17th Century Palace of Azurara is the Museum of Decorative Arts, just across the road from the Portas do Sol viewpoint. Here you can view some of the best examples of applied arts from the 17th and 18th century. A common highlight for most people is a stunning 17th century tapestry depicting a parade of Giraffes, oh and the courtyard cafe.
WHERE: Largo das Portas do Sol, 2, Alfama
WHEN: Wednesday to Monday 10am to 5pm (closed Tuesdays)
HOW: 12 minute walk from WLFT
Across the road from Portas do Sol
Don't miss the views from the roof of the Sao Vicente de Fora Monastery, Alfama
Sao Vicente de Fora Monastery / Church: Enter through a gate to the right of the façade, and you will find the interior and cloisters are decorated with exceptional 18th-century tiled panels illustrating scenes from LaFontaine’s Fables then head to roof for a stunning view.
The story of this church is not short but lets try, it was built in 1582, to commemorate lives lost in this location during The Crusades in 1147. It was restored after the earthquake in 1855 when it became the resting place for the Bragança dynasty, including Catherine of Bragança, a Portuguese princess who became the Queen of England when she married Charles II, it houses all bodies of the kings from 1640 to 1910.
WHERE: Largo de São Vicente, Alfama
WHEN: Monday to Saturday 9am-8pm. Sundays 9am-12:30pm, then 3pm-5pm
HOW:20 mins walk from WLFT
10 mins walk from Largo das Portas do Sol viewpoint
National Pantheon, Alfama
National Pantheon: Also known as the Santa Engracia Church, is built on the site of an earlier church that was torn down in 1630, after a man was wrongfully executed there. Legend has it that before dying, he cursed the rebuilding of the church. It did take several centuries to be completed and was only finished in 1966, spooky.
Today it is the National Pantheon, and contains the tombs of several prominent Portuguese figures including presidents, writers, a fado singer, a football player and more.
The building’s interior is covered in beautiful, multicoloured slabs of polished marble and the elegant dome on the roof is one of Lisbon’s most recognisable landmarks. Head up to the terrace for a truly 360 degree view of Lisbon.
WHERE: Campo de Santa Clara, Alfama
WHEN: Tuesday to Sunday 10am to 5pm
HOW: 20 minute walk from WLFT
1 min walk from Sao Vicente de Fora
Sao Jorge Castle - Alfama
Sao Jorge Castle - Alfama
Castelo de Sao Jorge: The Castelo de Sao Jorge sits on the highest hilltop with the entire city and the river laid out below to see. In 1147 Portugal’s first King Afonso Henriques took the Castle from the Moors. Just 4 years after Portugal was recognised as its own independent kingdom, in 1143.
CHIADO is an elegant metropolis of shops, cafes, book stores, restaurants, museums and bars. Most of the buildings in the area date back to the 1700s but this neighbourhood will transport you back to the romantic times of the Belle Epoque. When in the 19th and early 20th century Fernando Pessoa (Portuguese Hemingway of sorts) was penning some of his greatest poetry at the now historic art deco style cafe, BRASILEIRA.
Rua do Carmo, early 20th Century, Chiado
Rua do Carmo, 2019, Chiado
RUA DO CARMO: A lot has changed but the essence and charm of the Belle Epoque remains in Chiado. Enter Rua do Carmo from its lowest end as you leave Rossio Sqaure and let yourself be transported. Go and admire the Portuguese Jewelry (Filigree) at Joalharia do Carmo, window shop the finely crafted gloves at Luvaria Ulisses, then see if you can find the secret elevator at the back of a small, unmarked cork shop to enter the Terraces of Chiado. A stop at the artisanal gelato shop, Santini is always a good idea too. Browse the artistic works laid out by their makers on picnic rugs to sell and enjoy the sounds of the resident buskers.
WHERE: Rua do Carmo, Chiado
WHEN: Public street, all hours
HOW: 5 minute walk from WLFT
Luvaria Ulisses + Joalharia do Carmo, Rua do Carmo, Chiado
JOALHARIA DO CARMO: The rare beauty of these two shop entrances and their iconic Art Nouveau façades should not be overlooked, a meander around their interiors also gives an insight into Portuguese history and culture. Note the Portuguese coat of arms at the entrance.
WHERE: R. do Carmo 87B, Chiado
WHEN: Monday to Saturday 10am to 7pm
HOW: 5 minute walk from WLFT
Terraces of Chiado, Rua do Carmo below, Chiado
TERRACES OF CHIADO: Yes, Topo Chiado occupies the top terrace and part of the middle terrace but they are public space so you do not need to buy anything to be able to relax on the lower and middle areas. Check out the Cine Society Rooftop Cinema tickets + info to see if there is an outdoor movie screening while you are here.
WHERE: Topo Chiado
WHEN: Public terraces, all hours
HOW: 10 minutes walking from WLFT without using the elevator on Rua do Carmo
Amazens do Chiado, Shopping mall entrance, Chiado
ARMAZENS DO CHIADO (Mall): “Meet you in front of Armazens do Chiado..”, a common phrase of all locals. This mall is one of the city’s favourite meeting points with 54 shops inside, free wifi and a food court on the top floor with a view of the Sao Jorge Castle and Rua Garrett.
WHERE: Rua do Carmo, 2, Chiado
WHEN: Daily 10am to Midnight (some shops vary)
HOW: 6 minutes walking from WLFT, or 30 seconds from Joalharia do Carmo
Rua Garrett, Chiado
RUA GARRETT: Named after the famous poet Almeida Garrett. It is the central street of Chiado, stretching from Armazéns do Chiado mall up to Luis de Camoes square. Lined with Lisbon’s most iconic shops and cafes.
WHERE: Rua Garrett, Chiado
WHEN: All hours, Public street
HOW: 6 minutes walking from WLFT, or beginning at Armazens do Chiado
Largo do Carmo square, Chiado
LARGO DO CARMO: There is a lot more going on than first meets the eye in Largo do Carmo. Enjoy a drink in this jacaranda-filled square and get your checklist ready. Find the entrance for 14th century ruins of the Carmo Convent which is now the Carmo Archaeological Museum. Look for the headquarters of the National Guard where prime minister Marcelo Caetano took refuge during the 1974 carnation revolution, leading the government to surrender on this spot. If you are looking for the entrance to the Terraces of Chiado/Topo or how to get to the free level of the Santa Justa Lift you’re almost there !
WHERE: Largo do Carmo, Chiado
WHEN: All hours, public square
HOW: 10 mins walk from WLFT, or 4 mins from Armazens do Chiado
Carmo Ruins, Chiado
CARMO RUINS: Ruined by the 8.9 richter scale earthquake of 1755, during a busy mass. It was a devastating time for Lisbon’s then largest church. Today it is admired for remaining roofless, with its nave open to the heavens and its arches framing the sky. What used to be the main altar is now the Carmo Archaeological Museum, which has quite an eclectic collection. At the museum’s entrance is a stone engraved with gothic lettering, stating that Pope Clement VII grants 40 days of indulgence to “any faithful Christian” that visits this church.
WHERE: Largo do Carmo, Chiado
WHEN: Monday to Saturday 10am to 5pm
HOW: 10 mins walk from WLFT, or 4 mins from Armazens do Chiado
Patio de Siza, Chiado
PÁTIO DO SIZA: This courtyard is easily bypassed but is worth a look around. It was designed by architect Siza Vieira after the great Chiado fire of 1988 and is filled with cafes and restaurants. Cante also has its boutique in this courtyard if you are looking for some quality Portuguese bikinis.
WHERE: Entrance through Rua Garrett 19, Chiado
WHEN: Public square, all hours
HOW: 7 minutes walking from WLFT, or 1 minute from Armazens do Chiado
Bertrand book shop, Rua Garrett, Chiado
BERTRAND BOOKSHOP: The oldest operating book store in the world, founded in 1732 by two french brothers. Stroll around and keep an eye out for some translated Portuguese literature from Nobel-Prize author José Saramago, Fernando Pessoa and many other celebrated Portuguese writers.
WHERE:Rua Garrett 73-75, Chiado
WHEN: Daily, 9am to 10pm
HOW: 8 Minutes walking from WLFT, or 90 seconds from Armazens do Chiado
A Brasileira Cafe, Rua Garrett, Chiado
CAFE A BRASILEIRA: One table outside is permanently occupied by the cafe’s most famous patron Fernando Pessoa, who used to drink much more than just Brazilian espresso there while he wrote. Lisbon’s most famous cafe opened in 1905 and introduced the culture of coffee to the city. Most people want to sit outside to view the street performances but the Art Deco interior made up of wood, modernist paintings, mirrors and marble is beautiful.
WHERE: Rua Garrett 122, Chiado
WHEN: Daily 8am to 2am
HOW: 10 minute walk from WLFT, or 2 minutes from Bertand bookshop
Basílica dos Mártires, Rua Garrett, Chiado
BASÍLICA DOS MÁRTIRES: Now it is known for being the site of Fernando Pessoa’s baptism, but “The Church of the Martyrs” was built to celebrate the martyrs who perished in the 1147 siege of Lisbon, taking the city from the Moors. Its construction was completed in 1784 in baroque and neoclassical styles. The ceiling was beautifully painted by Pedro Alexandrino de Carvalho, and it houses a magnificent organ from 1780.
WHERE: Rua Serpa Pinto 10D, Chiado (Rua Garrett)
WHEN: Daily 9am to 7pm
HOW: 10 mins walking from WLFT, or 30 seconds from Brasileira Cafe
Luís de Camões Square, Chiado/Bairro Alto
CAMÕES SQUARE: A very convenient meeting place if you have lost a friend in the busy streets of the Bairro Alto bar district. Praça Luís de Camões (Camões square) is the junction between Chiado and the entrance to the Bairro Alto bar district. In the center is a bronze statue of the highly celebrated Portuguese poet Luís de Camões, accompanied by eight smaller statues representing more of the Portuguese literary greats. The cobblestones of Camões square depict images of mermaids and ships which are key symbols from his most famous poem “Os Lusíadas”.
WHERE: Praça Luís de Camões, Chiado
WHEN: Public square, all hours
HOW: 12 minute walk from WLFT, or 2 minutes from the Basílica dos Mártires
Manteigaria Chiado, Pastel de nata
MANTEIGARIA: Another famous rivalry. Which is better ? Pastéis de Belém from the shop that pioneered this pastry and carries its namesake, or the Pastel de Nata from Manteigaria. In principle they are the same thing only made in different locations and carrying different names. A buttery pastry base that is filled with sweet, smooth custard and browned on the top.
WHERE: Rua do Loreto 2, Chiado
WHEN: Daily 8am to 10pm
HOW: 13 minute walk from WLFT, or 1 minute from Praça Luís de Camões
Museu Nacional de Arte Contemporânea – Museu do Chiado, Chiado
MUSEU NACIONAL DE ARTE CONTEMPORÂNEA – CHIADO MUSEUM: The MNAC is a must-see for those wanting to learn about and enjoy 19th and 20th century Portuguese romantic, naturalist, modern and contemporary art.
WHERE: Rua Serpa Pinto 4, Chiado
WHEN: Monday to Saturday 10am to 6pm
HOW: 12 minutes walking from WLFT, or 6 minutes from Manteigaria Chiado
A Vida Portuguesa, Chiado
SHOPPING IN CHIADO:
Shop your little heart out ! In Chiado the presence of chain stores is strong, but I promise there is much more to discover than what first meets the eye. If you want some fast fashion go ahead and attack the racks at Zara, H&M, Brandy Melville, Mango, Massimo Dutti, Bershka, Stradivarius and more. BUT, there are also many hidden gems that represent the history of the area, as well as the best of Portuguese and international independent brands.
THE BEST SHOPS IN CHIADO:
A VIDA PORTUGUESA: Filled with Portuguese products and craft, they have two stores in Chiado each with a plethora of all things Portuguese, made by Portuguese people. Soaps, perfume, jewellery, kitchenware, wine, liquors and more.
2. LOUIE LOUIE: Funky old record store, also has a small cafeteria and an area selling musical instruments. There’s a bit of everything and at every price, from ska to rap, to jazz and punk. Go looking for some cape-verdean records that are hard to come by in the rest of the city.
WHERE: Escadinhas do Santo Espírito da Pedreira 3, Chiado
WHEN: Monday to Saturday 11 am to 7:30 pm, Sunday 3pm to 7:30pm
5. LUVARIA ULISSES: 1920’s art deco store selling fine leather gloves. It can fit only one customer at a time as it is only 4 metres squared. What this shop lacks in space it makes up for in style and quality.
WHERE: Rua do Carmo 87-A, Chiado
WHEN: Monday to Saturday 10am to 7pm
HOW: 5 minute walk from WLFT
6. SKYWALKER: Boutique. Mostly mens, some womens, amazing backpacks, sneakers, sunglasses and more
WHERE: Rua do Norte 12, Bairro Alto (very near to Camoes square)
WHEN: Monday to Saturday 10am to 8pm, Sunday 2pm to 7pm
14. SLOU: Amazing menswear with brands like Comme des Garçons SHIRT, Raf Simons, Nike Sportswear, Common Projects, Frank Leder, Barena, A Kind Of Guise, Gosha Rubchinskiy, Saturdays and more
WHERE: Rua Nova da Trindade 22E, Chiado
WHEN: Monday to Friday 11am to 1:30pm, then 2:30pm to 8pm, Saturday 2:30pm to 8pm
If you have lost your phone in Bairro Alto on friday night then you have a chance of buying it back on Saturday at the THEIVES MARKET – “FEIRA DA LADRA”.
This market has roots dating back to the 13th century and is full to the brim of bits, bops, clothes, cameras, antiques, print media and a great mix of everything. Put your sifting skills to the test and find yourself a treasure !
WHEN: Tuesdays and Saturdays – 6AM to 2PM
WHERE: Campo Da Santa Clara (above the National Pantheon), ALFAMA.
